The resin forms a matrix which holds the fibres together, preventing slip
between the fibres and holding the moulded shape. The resin also prevents
environmental damage like abrasion. There are several resins possibly
used with carbon fibre.
- Polyester resin, this is what is commonly used with fibreglass.
I use it for moulds, its fairly cheap ~£10 gets you 5 Kg.
Most fibreglass seems to be sized[?] for use with polyester and
if you try epoxy the resin goes white and doesn't wet the glass.
I wouldn't use this with Carbon or Kevlar.
- Vinyl esters and Phenaloics. I am told Phenaloics are good at
elevated temperatures, I don't know about the strength. From what
I can gather vinyl esters fill the gap between polyester and epoxy
I was told vinyl esters would be OK for making moulds that had
to withstand post curing or elevated curing. The price seems to
be close to the price of epoxy so I haven't used them.
- Epoxy resin, I believe the roots of this go back to a spitfire
built of plastic in WWII[don't quote me on that]. Its stronger
and has better temperature resistance than Polyester. For wet
lay up its supplied as hardener and resin in approximately 3:1
ratio. It seems the hardeners are blended to give specific curing
properties, these also affect the strength. So rather than adding
less hardener to slow the cure down you use a different hardener,
if you have slow and fast you can blend them to get cure times
in between. If you add less hardener than necessary you can end
up with a soggy mess which doesn't cure properly; the manufacturers
don't give data on how far out you can be when mixing but I have
only experienced non-curing when I have made a definite mistake
in quantities, probably using half the desired amount of hardener.
Its easy to be quite accurate with scales, syringes or the rather
neat mini pumps that fit in the containers.
Mixing instructions are included with the resin,
you might find "100:30 resin to hardener by weight" and
"3:1 resin to hardener by volume"; These are the quantities
for SP110. Often they don't quote by volume so if you used the by
weight figures and mixed using syringes, a 100 cc mix of SP110 should
be: 75cc:25cc. If you use the by weight figures you would mix 77cc:23cc.
That's not far out about a 1cc less hardener than needed, that's
OK. One resin manufacturer gave specification for the resin, hardness
elongation etc., with varying amounts of hardener, the above example
was within the correct mix window.
I use syringes but will buy a set of scales some
time, Argos do kitchen scales
for £12 they measure in gm up to 5 kg. I must admit to guessing
the mixing ratio for the Pregel most of the time, I use this stuff
as glue. I mix in a stainless pot that holds about 100cc but a paper
cup is more convenient and rather than cleaning it you can bin it.
The main problem I had has been pinholes, imperfections
in the laminate surface. After some detective work I decided these
were due to air in the resin. When you mix the resin it fills with
air bubbles, if you stick the pot of resin in a vacuum chamber it
froths up. It takes about 10-15 minutes to pull all the bubbles
from Graff SE. So I made up a vacuum mixing pot, the first was mechanical
and not successful, I now just have a top for my mixing pot with
an 'o' ring seal and vacuum fitting. I chuck several stainless bolts
in the resin/hardener stick the top on and evacuate, then move the
pot around for 5 minutes and I have air free resin, this cured the
pinhole problem.
Humidity, the resin is hydroscopic[?]. If you use
epoxy in the damp it goes cloudy, I assume its useless. As my workshop
is a damp garage I only use epoxy between May and September and
then only on dry days. I try to get any moulds done in the winter
if possible so I can make the parts in the summer, polyester doesn't
seem to mind the weather.
The quantity of resin to mix while using cheap poyester
can just be guessed, and you either mix more or throw someaway.
The ammount of epoxy will depend on the desired resin:fibre ratio,
as a guide ~40% by weight is the ratio for SPS prepregs. I reacon
about 75% by weight you waste some and you suck some into the breather
cloth, much less than this and you find you are putting the final
pieces of carbon in dry. To make this even more of a guess I guess
the weight of fabric being used:)
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The resin properties that were most important,
- Viscosity, with high viscosity it is hard
to consolidate, so takes longer and probably increases the amount
of air "picked up" by the resin. The Graff SE and West
xxx have the highest viscosity.
- Time to gel, curing time, with fast Hardener
on a hot day the fairly thick Graff SE gels to quick to mix 60
cc of resin and make a mudguard, it becomes to thick to wet the
final layers of carbon. It is possible to get around this once
you know it happens.
- UV stabilization, probably on of the most
important properties for making cosmetic parts. The graff surf
epoxy is for sheathing surfboards so is UV resistant. SP115 actually
has violet die in it, filter? SP115 has fantastic clarity.
- Flow, how well it flows out after brushing
on. If painting epoxy on a surface SP115 flows out without sagging
beautifully. I have tried SP110 it wasn't as good and shows hazy
patches. Graff SE doesn't show brush marks, but tends to show
ripples, also leaves hazy shadows where the resin is thicker.
Suppliers
- SPS
- Composite Wings
- Graff, The Chemical Co. 01964 55407
- West
- Ciba Geigy
- Freeman Distribution
- NationWide GRP Supplies. 01209 821028
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